PCV Upgrade for Eagle Talon 420a Turbo Setup

PCV ( Positive Crankcase Ventalation) Conversion to a stonger Turbo Talon PCV

Finished PCV Conversion from Non-Turbo to Turbo, In reality the crankcase could still use positive flow so adding a T Behind the Valve and running a large 9 mm vacuum line and putting it about 1 inch in front of the turbo intake is coming soon. Theres a vacuum in front of the turbo when the car is driving, only at idle it there vacuum in the intake manifold. A catch can may be installed to reduce oil getting into the intake of the turbo, keeping things clean.

Some things are a tight fit so I always try to take advantage of the parts I have laying around, I had a spare heater hose that has a 90 degree bend I used to make the tight right turn without kinking. The Turbo Talon ( 4g63 Tsi) PCV is threaded, I literally screwed it into the open end of the hard rubber tube which seemed to fit snug and then clamped it down.


Here are the stock parts. The 90 degree Pcv and the dry rotted hose held together with electrical tape, so redneck I had to fix it. I tried to blow through the PCV, It seems to work however I cant make 5 psi of pressure by blowing on it, I believe it was giving under pressure and leaking, and getting stuck open. They get clogged with junk too.

These are the Parts I used.
1. A 1997 Eagle Talon TSI PCV, I used the TSI part because its more rugged, and is made to handle boost without leaking like the plastic pcv did.

2. PCV hose, not excact size but fit on the nipples with some twisting.

3. 4 Hose clamps to secure the hoses and valve to prevent leaking when under vacuum or boost.


It is very important to have Positive crankcase ventalation. In a normal naturally asperated car, the intake almost always have a vacuum. This vacuum sucks air through the inside of the engine to clean the air and suck out Blow-By. Blow-by happens when gasses from combustion leak past the piston rings and behind the piston. After a few seconds of operation a used engine can build a great deal pressure inside the engine BEHIND the pistons. This is resistance and the engine runs slugish and the gasses that leak behind the pistons have soot ( just like the black on your exhaust tip) This soot is gritty like a fine sandpaper and when it saturates your oil it wears your parts down with quickness. You could have early bearing failure which means your engine would need new ones ( thats a engine rebuild). There are only two ways to prevent that. Either vent the exhaust gasses out of the engine or change oil every 1000 miles besides the normal 3000. I rather remove the stinking exhuast caught inside the engine.



Interesting factoid - Even new gasoline engines in made in 2007 will leak 3- 5 percent behind their pistons, therefore the need for PCV on new engines is still a must.

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