trying to sell my computer

Fushing the XO Vision Sceen and making a bracket

I like this screen because it was very inexpensive. I managed to nab it up for $160 plus shipping. This was on ebay of course. The retail is $300. Still the two main things I care about are here. A DVD player, and head unit. This screen is also a CD player , tuner, Tv, and has USB and SD card slots for additional memory. There are two AUX in video inputs, one for backup camera, and another for a game system. So far this screen is looking pretty good. I hope to be using it in a week or so. I already soldered the wiring harness.This is what I came up with to mount it. I hope this is strong enough or I will need to go by the OEM metal brackets. I will need to drill two holes for the screws so this can be mounted. My biggest concern is the DVD player flushing to the bezel. As you can see it can be done in the picture above however I dont know if it will be able to slide forward will the bezel i made having such tight clearance. I may need to sacrifice flushing the unit to make sure it can open. I will only slide it out enough for the screen to open without resistance.

Bezel cam in, and so did the XO dvd player, here is how they fit!

It is not perfect but I can deal with it. It would be hard to find a perfect fit.

Garrett Turbocharger families, Choosing a turbo for Honda, Mitsubishi, and Toyota 4 cylinder cars ect.

Garrett makes alot of turbos , but when choosing a turbo you should know the BASIC characteristics. This won't make you an expert but you will outsmart that Honda punk with the TO4E ! Don't be dazzled by the biggest turbo you can find or it will be " just for looks".

Turbocharger familiesThe T25 family = super fast spooling "small" turbo that makes good low rpm torque, but lacks top end power. This turbocharger is commonly used where throttle response and low rpm torque are desired without much regard to high rpm power.

The T3 family = "intermediate turbo" that spools slower than a T25, but has the ability to make substantially more power than the T25 family. The T3 family is the most common series found on factory performance vehicles. When a OEM turbo car wants better perfomance they can simply Upgrade turbines or compressor type. They can make impressive power, but were known to be laggy. If you choose a T3 turbo get the SMALLEST one that meets your horsepower expectations to maintain the best drivability, torque and economy! The smallest are .42 AR but the most likely one to use on a car between 300-350HP is a .48AR

The T3/T4 Family= They are the common turbo for the single turbo 400-550 HP 4 cylinder and rotary applications. The boost does not start till 3000+ RPM and reach full boost around 3800+ RPM. This turbos efficiency is good in the 300+ Horse power range and Ideal for Road warriors like Honda, Mazda, Ford, Toyota scion ect. Take in mind that the engine must be reved high before there is boost so that means 60 foot times may be slow. Also this turbo is not ideal for anyone who is not going to run over 10psi Boost daily. You simply would not use it to its potential. I use a turbonetice T3/T4 now and it does not have boost until around 3500. Because the turbo is larger it also exerts drag ( like stuffing a potato in your muffler) until the compressor spools fast enough to overcome the power loss of the drag. The most use is found on 350-500 HP imports and that is when they have the oportunity to stomp the gas. The reaction on this family is slow 2-3 seconds depending on what RPM you are at.

The T04 family = "big turbo" that makes huge power, but is very very laggy. Without the beauty of being able to make a hybrid turbo, a T04 would probably not even be an option.The 3 main components that have the biggest impact on performance are the a/r of the turbine housing, the size (aka trim) of the tubine wheel, and the size (aka trim) of the compressor housing.

Common turbine housing a/r "sizes"T25: .64 a/r, .86 a/rT3: .36 a/r, .48 a/r, .63 a/r, .82 a/rT4: not listed...see why later(CivicRyda2K's addition)

Common compressor housing a/r "sizes"T3: .42 a/r, .50 a/r, .60 a/r, .82 a/rT4: .50 a/r, .60 a/r, .70 a/rIn a nutshell, the larger the a/r, the later the power comes. A small a/r gives you a fast spooling turbo but limits top-end power. A large a/r gives you a laggy turbo with big top-end power.

Common T25 turbines:DSM trim (?? not sure how big it is, but it's quite small)60 trim (small)76 trim (medium)Common T3 turbines:Stage 1 (small -- most common turbine on junkyard turbos)

Stage 2 (med)

Stage 3 (large -- most common turbine on new T3/T04 hybrids)

Stage 5 (very large)Common T04 turbines:I'm not gonna list any because I don't have info on them and the T4 turbines require so much exhaust energy to spin that they are practically unusable in our application unless you want insane lag and have got a motor that will spin to 10k every day.

Common T25 compressors:I'm not gonna list any. I do have some info on them, but for the most part, a T25 compressor will struggle to stay in its efficiency range on a boosted Honda.Common T3 compressors:40 trim (20lb/min -- haha...don't even think about it)45 trim (21lb/min)50 trim (30lb/min -- probably one of the most common on junkyard turbos, works well for SOHC and LS engines)60 trim (34lb/min -- biggest "production" T3 compressor, excellent power on D series/LS) <=== my old turbo "Super 60" (36lb/min -- note: this is NOT the "60-1" compressor)

Common T04B compressors:

S trim (37 lb/min)

V trim (48 lb/min)

H trim (49 lb/min)

Common T04E compressors:

40 trim (36 lbs/min)

46 trim (41 lbs/min) <=== my new turbo

50 trim (47 lbs/min)

54 trim (45 lbs/min -- note that the 54 trim flows less than the 50 trim)57 trim (49 lbs/min)60 trim (50 lbs/min)

Common T04S compressors:60-1 62-1 (bigger yet -- I believe this is a T04S compressor...correct this if it is wrong)

Performance (listed in order of increasing performance):

• A T25 is a straight T25 turbo --> T25 turbine + T25 compressorA




• T28 is a hybrid T25/T3 turbo --> T25 turbine + T3 compressorA




• T3 is a straight T3 turbo --> T3 turbine + T3 compressorA




• T3/T04B is a T3/T04B hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04B compressor (used in Drag kits)




• T3/T04E is a T3/T04E hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04E compressor ( This is the Turbonetics Turbo currently on the Talon)




• T3/60-1 is a T3/T04S hybrid turbo --> T3 turbine + T04S (60-1) compressor

Iron Man 360 install continues, test fit into the dash of the Eagle Talon, and control panel for 360

Iron Man 360, update on test fit and update on Control panel.

The Xbox 360 on the dash is a tight fit overall. I this picture the 360 is sitting inside the enclosure. The unit is sitting about 1/2 to 3/4 inch lower that it will once it has been mounted. This is to promote airflow out the bottom cooling fans and leave room for video and power cables. Three screws across the top, on in the top left hand corner, and two on each side of the DVD drive. These are already original mounting points within the original case an Xbox 360 is sold in from the factory.

This is the straight forward view from the passenger seat. Agian this is the 360 about 3/4 inch lower that is will be mounted. The entire cd window will be visible when mounted after the finishing and primer is done. I am sure you noticed there is some kind of hole busted in the left corner of the glove box cover. This is where I removed the original xbox button that use to be installed with the original xbox we use to have. Since this advertantly was insterted in the update I will continue by showing what is going on with the glove box cover.

A better view from the passenger door, more of what an ouside spectator would see.


The original xbox button was here but before I fully removed It I took pictures to show how the original power of button and eject button was.

Comparison of the 360 power button in relation to the original xbox button. Since the Xbox 360 can eject the disc from the user interface, by selecting it with the remote control, there is no need to install another eject button. Note: the usb door will not be included in the 360 interface from the front of the glove box.

Ultimatly the xbox button will replace the old one , but it seems somewhat plane to only have the power button, so I descided to include the majority of the Xbox 360 faceplates features.

This is the configuration that I am going to use. The power button will be aligned with the two memory car doors, IR eye and Bluetooth button. Tbe power button will be about 3/4 inch closer to the doors and eye as I am holding them right here. The DVD tray hole ofcourse will not be included.

This is the configuration I am going to use. There is no cd tray here and each button and door will have the lip hollowed out around the edges. Once plexiglass is cut in a shap to wrap around each door they will all be lit with leds. I will have either green and red or blue. I can change what color all leds with light with a simple switch. This is mostly due to restrictions on the use of red and blue in a street legal vehicle. The two memory car doors I do not believe I will use for memory cars , but USB jacks a very easy to extend and mount inside the memory car bays.

Iron Man Xbox 360 Elite, Red Powdercoat and DVD window

Iron Man Color Themed Xbox 360

This is one of the better pictures, I will take better pictures with my camera in a day or two. These cameraphone pictures from the blackberry are good enough to see what was done.

With the 360 upright you can have a better view of what you would see from the outside. The DVD window turned out very clean especially after the red coating was applied. The fan shroud will stay this color for the moment ,but will eventually be painted or replaced with a clear version.

This is what the 360 looked like before the splash of red. The wide piece behind it and towards to bottom is the mount I am using to fabricate the fiberglass enclosure. Once the eclosure is finished it will float on Plexi glass lit with leds inside a painted enclosure.

Here are the parts as they were recieved from my powder coater. I only see a couple imperfections , but they are dwarfed be the overall appearance and not noticable. The richest of all the color is on the back of the cage that will be facing the mount. That is sad times, but overall it still looks great!

Eclipse Trunk install for Diamond Audio and fiberglass is done!

Here is a nice done picture from the cell phone. All this needs is lighting for the plexi and the trunk latch reinstall when its back from paint, both of those you can not see in this kind of picture anyways so for all intensive purposes it is done. The amp is foating on plexi glass ( floating is when it is above the install and you cant see the legs. This is about 40-50 hours of work. The initial ten hours were framing, making a floor underneath, stretching the cloth and initial fiberglassing. Then two more layers were added to the back and one to the front. About a gallon of body filler was used and 5 layers of primer. This is in the back of the GST Eclipse Spyder.

Quest to pass emissions for turbo DSM

Mt grandparents wanted to do something nice this past week. They heard that the car was not emissions tested yet and wanted to go do it while I was away at work. They took it to this place called Hydes Auto. Presumably they knew a guy who worked there. He just popped the hood took one look and said it will never pass emissions. My grandparents gave me back the news. Obviously this guy either does not know what he is talking about or it too lazy to explain he does not know how a turbo works. Anyhow I pulled the codes from the ECU and they read " o2 sensor bank one no activity and small evap leak". A small evap leak is a vacuum hose normally FYI. I had the alternator tested and there was the culprate for sub-standard spark. The Alternator should output 90 amps from this orginal DSM alternator. At maximum reved to 3000 RPM it only made 32.5. That is 1/3 what it should.

I pulled the 02 bosch sensor and it was pretty gunked up as you can see. It is only 6 months old but they are cheap and come with a 2 year exchange warranty, so the exchange is free. :) Later I will get a NGK.

After I changed the spark splugs and put in the new o2 the engine light went off dispite the small vacuum leak. Well I guess that guy just did not know anything about a DSM. I still need an alternator though but it now will pass emissions, thanks to no one else but me.. Thanks for reading.

Xbox 360 enclosure freshly fiberglassed gets pulled from the dash

Imagine this enclosure is in the dash at this moment. You can see how curvy the fiberglass is when we use stretch cloth to form it first. The mushroomed edges are intentional as they overlap the dash at this time. They make sure that everytime I set it back into the dash that it sits securely without screwing it down. Screwing it in and them unscrewing it over and over through the finishing of this peice would be such a pain. Also since I don't care about the edges with the excess there , if the sander chips and edge it it doesn't matter as I will trim is before installation anyway.

This view from the back really tells all. The cloth is affixed to the frame ans stretched to edges. However now I need to apply resin and a layer of fiberglass matt to the backing. This will reinforce the enclosures shape so that it does not warp from heat or crack from pressure of sanding the opposite side to make it pretty :) PS: Anytime somthing is made of fiberglass, if it only has one layer of fiberglass matt it will warp and flex with heat. Fiberglass gets stregth from multiple layer supporting each other and bonden with resin.

Taken in mind we need at least two layer of fiberglass matt I will test fit the enclosure tonight to make sure fitment is still good and add another supporting layer. This will mean the finished piece will have 2 layers backing the enclosure. I did add one layer to the inside, but much if not all of that layer will be removed from sanding.

This is the bottom of the enclosure and Xbox 360. All the wires and even the fans exhuast downward. This all faces the floor board and makes wiring fairely simple as it could look like a complete rats nest and noone would know. So for now this works very well. We already have a water cooling kit so that it can operate without issues in summer temperatures. The 360 water cooling kit is from Thermaltake, but we may use an Koolance unit instead. The hoses would come out the area where the fans are now, so there are no need for extra holes or changes to the enclosure in the future.

Here is a broken 360 I have at the house that I slid inside the enclosure standing up to show a view from what would be the passneger area. This is just a substitute 360 and not the one shown in previous posts with the drive window and other mods. It is being powder coated right now and I will have it back this weekend I believe.

360 Parts are Candy Red! WOW

Here are the 360 parts picture right after jeff powdercoated them candy red. Very deep and goes well withthe Iron Man 360 Color scheme we are going for! More pictures will follow!

360 install in Eagle Talon DSM , Resin applied to fleece for fiberglassing.

360 Fleece gets stretched to the edges of the former airbag pocket

The first layer of resin was applied to the fleece. I used about 10 ounces here. I mixed 20 ounces but the stuff hardens quickly. I applied one layer of fiberglass matt and it reallt roughed up the surface. All thats left to do is apply resin to the overlapping edges of the opening. Even though they will get trimmed off in the end, they will make sure that each time the enclosure is test fitted that it sits in the same exact way.

360 Fleece gets stretched to the edges of the former airbag pocket and hot glued in place to the painters tape.. The dash has been layered over with blue painters tape. The fleece was stapled to the MDF backing. The red lines are a tracing around the xbox 360 before it was removed for these steps.

Here is a dry test fit. In this picture I am trying to see where the 360 needs to be inside the dash. I descided to install it 1 inch higher than seen below so it is more centered.

Here is the 360 in the fram I made for it. This fram will only support the 360 after it is attached by screws or glue from the back. Otherwise it keeps the unit upright and level.

Here is te empty dash before the glovebox was temp reinstalled and dash taped off with painters tape.

Eclipse Spyder trunk install , 4g63T with Diamond Audio and fiberglass

Eclipse Spyder trunk install with Diamond Audio amp and sub.

This is it outside the car in better lighting, it turned out well.

This was done for the Dreamcast car, Xbox car is next :)

This is sitting in the floor

This is in the car, the rubber seal is not on, but wraps around the whole edge. This hides imperfections.

Xbox 360 in dash install Update, 360 gets a test fit inside the dash

Iron Man themed Xbox 360 Elite gets to try on some shoes! Woo!

As you know by checking the past two posts, a frame was made for the 360 for mounting. Then we cut a drive window in the drive. Turns out we have a little more room than I thought. The white is just the base and won't be visible after fibeglass is made.

Here is a straight on view from the passanger seat. When it is installed I will adjust it to sit 1 inch higher that it ise now so that the case is more centered.

Here is a shot with the unfinished bent plexiglass sitting on top over the mounting spot.


I polished the left edge of the plexi just for fun before this picture to show how clear and shiny it can get. All the blue is tape to prevent scratching the dash or smearing adhesive on by accident.

Updated design soon to reflect the fram and install of Xbox 360

Rainy days really are productive!

Here is the updated design. If you look at the older design from a few days ago the bridge was one piece. Just for sake of adjusting I am making it a three piece. One bridge and two legs. They will only be 2" or less tall due to space constraints and a screw mounted every 3/4" on the edges. Eight screws all together. This also refects the new drive bay window installed last night. The blue coloreed material is raw plexi glass, of which ironically is covered with a blue film. Until the install is done it will stay and then later be peeled away.

This is the actual unit so far. Cutting all the way to the edges of the disc was really pain staking but worth the effort! The current brindge must be removed to put in a plexi base. Before I do this I will test fit to make sure there is room. If there is expect to see a plexi base being cut and new bridge to replace this flimsy version used for test fitting. Turns out rainy days really can be productive! Thanks for reading.