Scoote Hood for 420a recieved , installed and we dont need no Uhual!

Hand Delivery of Package at Shipping Terminal

This guy was great. He carried the box to me and helped me inspect it. After that he found it amusing to see how I was going to get this mattress sized box home.

"We Dont Need No Stinkin Uhauls!"
I tried to rent a Uhaul right before I came to get the Hood. I was standing in line for maybe 15 minutes listing to the clerk assist the guy in front of me. He said " yup that 19.99 per day for the small van, plus 65 cents milage in town, plus 29.99 insurance" The man was astonished and asked " So your chargin for the miles?" The clerk said, " Yup and you gotta put premium fuel in it and it has to be the same level as when I gave it to you, too bad it only gets 4-5 miles a gallon." I added the numbers in my head and realized the cost was quickly rising to 85 dollars or more just to use a van for an hour to get the hood. As I was thinking, I was also staring without purpose at the goodies rack by the counter that contained several rolls or Duck Tape, nothing occured at the moment until I looked out the window and saw a roof luggage rack on a Honda Civic. I quickly stepped out of line and purchased two rolls of black Duck Tape. I had an idea, I used a comforter to cushion the box on the roof and 2 rolls of Duck tape to hold it down. I passed the Uhaul place agian and the sales guy was standig outside. I honked and yelled, " We dont need no stinking Uhual!"


First Look Of Hood Out of the Box

Even though my finger is in the picture from here it does't look bad. No cracks or busts from shipping. There will be tons of filling pinholes and sanding before it could be painted though. Overall I am very happy to that I have this piece before painting my car.


First Picture, I was too excited to wait for daylight

This is a picture at the local car wash, the most light I could find at the time. I was too excited to actually wait till the morning to share it with everyone. :D


The car before work at first light
Its hard to see anything wronge with the detail. That means when the details are takin care of and gaps closed up between panels and painted it would look great! This picture is of the car dry. Much paint prep but looks like it will be worth it over the standard hood.

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Complaints Spradleys Car Stereo or Spradley's Car stereo East Ridge TN on a Suede Seats Install

Suede Seats Install Review

Complaints

Updated Jan 14, Read below in red letters for the discussion with spradley.
First Complaints Warning : After having the seats installed by spradley they were way too close the the steering wheel. I am 5' 11" and I was stuck inside like a clown in one of those little cars, AND that was with the seat partially reclined. The installed the seats about 8 inches too far forward and that was the seat rolled all the way back. I asked him if I could get it moved back and he said " yeah sure I can put them in the back seats" Im like no really I cant drive like this. Ontop of that he said they would weld up a frame to mount to the floor with tabs. NO NONO No frame, just 1" x 1/8" slim Jim looking pieces of metal with a hole drilled in them that the OEM bolts go through. Its Sooo Loose and wobbles around. Also the seats arent straight either. They still have my OEM seats and I am going to try and get them back.

Update Jan, 24 08 Followup , I went to get the Seats back and they had been put back together after they couldnt manage to use the OEM brackets from them. They didnt call me and tell me they couldnt do it.

Spradley tried to say he actually worked on the seats four days and the reason the seats rocked around like a seesaw was because I was " a reall big guy" Which was absurd and pissed me off so I am like, " Okay then since I am so big , I contorted myself back out of the car, like a clown in one of those carnival cars, and said watch this now.... I used two fingers and moved the seat back and forth," His eyes got a little big and I am like" yeah it doesnt take such a big guy to move and its not safe." Spradley said, " yeah I know you been doggin me talkin to people". I said " well what can I say, its horrible". He said, "yeah well those were the brackets you gave me. I said " It was already established those bracked did not fit, I did not want you to install them they just happened to still be in my trunk , I paid 170 to have new brackets that DID fit welded and fabricated , and theres obviously not a drop of weld on it>" He said, " Well Im sorry that you dont like it and, well normally shops charge 50 dollars per hour to install things, you know what Im sayin, and we spent 4 days , 4 days time 8 hours would add up to alot of money. (thats $1600 hes saying he should have charged me FYI) I said," that just means they didnt know what they were doing . He said " well we never done this before. I said" okay then when I called and you knew you couldn't do what was asked and it wasnt working why didnt you tell me instead of keeping my car for 4 days, you had my cell and I called every day"
HIS response: Well we tried to weld on them for four days and if its not good enought you can leave it with us another few days, but theres no telling how long it will take.

My Thoughts : If his shop didnt have personell to Weld and fabricate a frame and mount for the seat and told me they could up front and their excuse later is that they dont do that kind of thing very often, then why would I want them to have my car another few day only to get it back misaligned, flimsy and bled on. I mean for god sakes there was Blood on the door, at least wipe it off! I am just glad it wasnt on a carpeted portion that would stain. Since having this issue I have found that there are sevaral makers of Seat brackets that are selling for 25 dollars ( OBX) at the lowest and 125 at the highest which is SPARCO Brand name, those ofcourse are high dollar.

Spradleys Car Stereo 423-499-8696

Ringgold Rd, East Ridge Tn 37412

I called spradleys about having the seats installed in the 1997 Talon. He qouted 125 because he has to make brackets. I plan to take the car to spradleys after the holiday and see what happens. They ask to have the car all day. Here is the grainy cell phone picture of the actual seats being installed.

Takin the night I received them, I had a not so great picture quality on the SGH-500 Samsung.

Update for Install for Eagle Talon / Eclipse Rally Seats Installed

They raised the price another 25 dollars since its not somthing they normally do......... " but they told me they do these all the time"

http://upgradecar.blogspot.com/2008/01/eagle-talon-dropped-off-for-suede.html

Complaints Warning : After having the seats installed by spradley they were way too close the the steering wheel. I am 5' 11" and I was stuck inside like a clown in one of those little cars, AND that was with the seat partially reclined. The installed the seats about 8 inches too far forward and that was the seat rolled all the way back. I asked him if I could get it moved back and he said " yeah sure I can put them in the back seats" Im like no really I cant drive like this. Ontop of that he said they would weld up a frame to mount to the floor with tabs. NO NONO No frame, just 1" x 1/8" slim Jim looking pieces of metal with a hole drilled in them that the OEM bolts go through. Its Sooo Loose and wobbles around. Also the seats arent straight either. I am pretty sure the installer cut himself while working on this as there was blood on the door. Gross. Spradley said he thinks he could get a fresh piece of metal and cut it agian to move the seat back but it would take a few days. This is so rediculous. They could have done the install they did in a hour or two for both seats with a saw and drill. WTF I really dont want to let him have my car for another 4-5 days only to get there and somone be a smart ass when they knew good and well that the seats arent far enough back. Beyond all that I now need to try and get my STOCK seats BACK as they didnt give them to me when I picked the car up.

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Interesting Post on Key Composites and Chaser Aerodynamics LLC

Okay interesting uncovering here. I was looking at the bill of lading for Key composites. The site pickup was from Key Composites Group however the shipment was billed to a business called Chaser Aerodynamics LLC. WOW ! Have I uncovered a drop shipper here? I called them and they say they are not the same company as Chaser. I looked at chaser site. Interestingly enough I found the Eclipse Scoote hood in about 30 seconds and its looks like the same location as the pictures from Key Composites!! Look



This hood is leaning agianst the same desk as the Picture at Key Composites a except without the Chaser Logo in the top left corner. Hmm Maybe Chaser is Buying from Key however why would their business name be the "bill to" on my shipping order?? Still trying to figure this out. NEver the less Chaser is also located in Maryland like Key Composites. I called Key and they act like I am crazy and dont know why the shipment was billed to the other company that ALSO sales similair product with appearing the SAME picture!!

http://www.aerokits.net/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75_204&products_id=2438

I pulled this pic from here because its leaning agianst the same desk as in the Key Composites Ebay Auctions. The investigation continues...


Just google " Scoote 2 Hood D32A " thats the part description for the hood, No key Composites

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Suede Seats and Chrome Wheels Long Overdue , 420a Turbo Talon

This is the Idea Bulb that actually helps you come up with that perfect solution, or at least light a room :)

Suede Seats $450 from Canada , eh

These seats are rigid when you sit in them. They have the feeling you are sitting on that heat activated memory foam. Either real high tech or cheap :) I like them. Seats Came with sliders. This was a random gift from my Girlfriend.

WOW keep her !

These are Motegi DP6 18 inch Wheels. These look great on my Eagle Talon when I first Purchased them. I pruchased a full set and damaged two of them last year . One has a curb mark and the other a Dent in the Rim. I found two DP6 rims on Ebay for 50 dollars. Woo So now I have 6 rims total. Just need Tires.

Wow Jeff has done it agian! These are the calipers I sent mid November to have polished and powder coated candy apple red. They look good in the pictures. I bet they will look good on the inside of a 18" chrome rim too! These were $120 to have polished and coated. The Blue Valve cover is just for contrast and is another customers.

Rims on the Eagle Talon after a Car wash in 2006

This is the Koolance Logo, an old one at that however I love the shape and I will use it in my installs for a shape theme.

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Scoote 2 Hood and Original Rx-7 Scoote Design on 420a Talon

Original Scoote Hood from a Side view

Adding design elements of the Scoote hood on Eagle Talon

Made by Key Composites Group

Courtesy of Jessie ( a guy) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/568341

My Scoote Hood is on the way, The only difference it design is mine will NOT have the center vent barely visible in this picture. As you can see taking design goes well with a set of side skirts. I am thinking I will get a Set of Rdora Side skirts to go with the hood and maybe a small "Lip" extension to the bottom lip of the talon bumper. I really like the talon stock looks so lets not take away from it just add where the ugly is. The car has no side skirts like its eclipse or dodge counterparts.

Thank You jessie for Hooking me up with the Hoodage, I never thought I would have so much hood!, I feel like I need to hold up a kwiki mart now! :P LOL

A Talon hood with copies of the original Scoote Vents but without the center ram vent. It is on its way 3-4 day shipping by UPS frieght as of Dec 18 07.

Key Composites - Phone: 1-443-484-9432

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PCV Upgrade for Eagle Talon 420a Turbo Setup

PCV ( Positive Crankcase Ventalation) Conversion to a stonger Turbo Talon PCV

Finished PCV Conversion from Non-Turbo to Turbo, In reality the crankcase could still use positive flow so adding a T Behind the Valve and running a large 9 mm vacuum line and putting it about 1 inch in front of the turbo intake is coming soon. Theres a vacuum in front of the turbo when the car is driving, only at idle it there vacuum in the intake manifold. A catch can may be installed to reduce oil getting into the intake of the turbo, keeping things clean.

Some things are a tight fit so I always try to take advantage of the parts I have laying around, I had a spare heater hose that has a 90 degree bend I used to make the tight right turn without kinking. The Turbo Talon ( 4g63 Tsi) PCV is threaded, I literally screwed it into the open end of the hard rubber tube which seemed to fit snug and then clamped it down.


Here are the stock parts. The 90 degree Pcv and the dry rotted hose held together with electrical tape, so redneck I had to fix it. I tried to blow through the PCV, It seems to work however I cant make 5 psi of pressure by blowing on it, I believe it was giving under pressure and leaking, and getting stuck open. They get clogged with junk too.

These are the Parts I used.
1. A 1997 Eagle Talon TSI PCV, I used the TSI part because its more rugged, and is made to handle boost without leaking like the plastic pcv did.

2. PCV hose, not excact size but fit on the nipples with some twisting.

3. 4 Hose clamps to secure the hoses and valve to prevent leaking when under vacuum or boost.


It is very important to have Positive crankcase ventalation. In a normal naturally asperated car, the intake almost always have a vacuum. This vacuum sucks air through the inside of the engine to clean the air and suck out Blow-By. Blow-by happens when gasses from combustion leak past the piston rings and behind the piston. After a few seconds of operation a used engine can build a great deal pressure inside the engine BEHIND the pistons. This is resistance and the engine runs slugish and the gasses that leak behind the pistons have soot ( just like the black on your exhaust tip) This soot is gritty like a fine sandpaper and when it saturates your oil it wears your parts down with quickness. You could have early bearing failure which means your engine would need new ones ( thats a engine rebuild). There are only two ways to prevent that. Either vent the exhaust gasses out of the engine or change oil every 1000 miles besides the normal 3000. I rather remove the stinking exhuast caught inside the engine.



Interesting factoid - Even new gasoline engines in made in 2007 will leak 3- 5 percent behind their pistons, therefore the need for PCV on new engines is still a must.

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Eagle Talon 420a Turbo Air Filter with Heat shield from APC

Installing Turbo Filter with Heat Shield on 420a Turbo Talon

This is the New air filter for the 420a Turbo Eclipse / Talon . The one I had was used from a previous car that had been turbocharged that just so happened to fit the space requirments of the little cubby above my intercooler piping that wraps around the bumper. The air filter on allows a single point of entry and is sealed otherwise. This is a slight advantage because you can stick its nose far in a cooler corner and get cooler air. Given the air may only be 15-30 degrees difference from the previous open air filter, for every 10 degrees you drop the intake temp you can get 1 extra HP. Another important factor is "what" you filter sucks up. As you can see a couple photos down. Read on...

The APC closed box yet nifty packaging, yep it worked on me, but funcionality is the key. Price at Advance Auto Parts 49.99

Top Comparison Picture, Both are pretty, One is shorter and more direct with airflow path, APC turbo air filter draws " straight through" while the other has a 2" area for straight draw through and the rest is side draw. This creates alot of turbulance and changes intake sound to more of a roaring loud engine verses lower engine sound with a upcoming whistle accelerating in every gear.

Here is the root of one of my largest problems. Just for the sake of good looks you face the Heat shield Down, However on the front you have the radiator, where air is pulled through the hot radiator and into the bottom of the air filter, very ineffective and preventing the airfilter from sucking up preheated radiator air. Also when it rains small amounts of water were sucked in from the bottom side caking the bottom of the air filter with road tar, this stuff is hard to clean out and has to litterally be soaked in a degreaser. Note this is after about 450 miles of test driving.

Direct Comparison from the top. The cuylinder air filter may have better filtration over all however all the air has to make several tight bends around edges and the another bend to turn into the turbo intake. The Turbo Filter has a more direct and smoother yet obvious aproach.

Turbo slings small amounts of oil out of its bearings, I will reasearch this and call Turbonetics. I have heard from ricers this is normal, but they are also reffering to a turbo that has been used before getting it. However dispite the film of residue the actual compressor is as clean as new after the 450 miles of test run.

This is the air filter facing the farthest from the turbo and exhaust manifold ( which produce hot air through radiant heat) and the bottom of the filter is closed off reducing the amount of hot air drawn in from the radiator. The only thing to remember is to have 2-3 inches away from any objects in front of a directional air filter of this type as 3 times as much air as to flow through the TIP of this unit over the standard " side draw" filter previously used. For me this is hard as the intercooler piping was made around a standard filter and this one is 1-2 inches wider. Knotching the edge of the fan shroud should give another inch of space without compromising looks or functionality.

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Scoote 2 Hood for Eagle Talon / Eclipse on the way

Scoote 2 Hood originally designed for Mazda RX7 Twin Turbo massaged to perfection for the Eagle Talon. Notice there is no center air ram inlet, only the three vents on each side. This drastically reduces under hood temperatures in combination with dual radiator fan and intercooler mod. The vents offer a quick release of hot air flowing through the radiator. I will add an oil cooler soon too. Its a fact that on average a engine is cooled 40 percent by oil that carries away heat from vital parts. It only makes sense to add a small oil cooler ( maybe a small 4 pass) with a fan and pump on a thermostat switch. When the oil starts to warm the fan and pump turn on cooling the oil thats sitting in the oil pan before the engine sucks up superheated lubricant from the turbocharger drain. More pictures to come when the Scoote 2 hood gets here. Lets all cross our fingers it fits perfect!

Car with Candy red turbo install, this is what will be partially visible through the vents on the hood.

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Starnes 420a Turbo Install

Ah, It's really pretty in comparison to before isn't it ? I didn't have time to install the Intake manifold. I am going to have a shop do it when I have the injectors installed , tuned, and have that one Tial waste gate bolt installed. I hear news from the grapevine someone special will get me a Scoot 2 Hood for me for Christmas, Woo Santa thinks I was good this year.

I installed a new O2 sensor and new NGK iridium spark plugs in my 420a but I gapped them at .035 which is recomened for up to 10 psi of boost for our stock ignition system. I took the initial drive. After about 5 minutes the water temp was rising quickly, but then went down and up agian. At first I thought maybe the heat was being generated very quickly then disappated. I was wronge . It was the opposite. The upper radiator hose was leaking and I was now on 2/3 coolant level and didnt know it. When I stopped at a stop sign steam slowly bellowed from under ther hood. I popped the hood an took the risk to drive home. After it cooled I inspected the culprit hose. NO TEAR, NO BUST! The stock clamp was simply not making a good seal. I added a worm gear clamp by the stock clamp and no leaks since then. I drove it to work today. I still dont have the front bumper on but I am boosting none the less!

Really Cool pic of me raising the fuel pressure while the car was running on the FMU / Boost dependant regulator. Picture courtesy of Jessie

Here's the gauge I was looking at to was the fuel pressure.

Now is the time to adjust fuel, I loosened the lock nut on the Fuel Management unit, Or otherwise known as a boost dependant regulator. The big nut controls base pressure ( idle) It needs to be 55 psi. right now its 4 psi, LOL WAYYY LOW! I carefully raised it.

Here is an often overlooked issue. The stock intake had a nipple on it. This is where the crankcase gets its ventilation air from. Its called Positive Crank case Ventilation , just like PCV valve acronym. The air would travel through the air filter and down the intake. There is another nipple that is connected to the intake manifold behind the throttle body. So there is a constant vacuum, the air is sucked through the nipple attached to the intake, through the engine and into the intake. Without a breather ( small air filter) you are sucking in unfiltered air and will get crud in your oil in a hurry and increased oil consumption.

Here's me doing that screw thing. I also hooked up the Signal lines ( vacuum/ boost hose) One hose runs from the tial waste gate to the nipple inlet on the fuel regulator, In the middle is a T that connects to the turbo compressor fitting. This is where the boost signal comes from. Make all these lines short as possible.

The spring is 2.5 in wide so you will need to depress the spring to install the top back on. It take about 20 pounds of pressure to do this. I recommend holding it down and putting one screw in each side and let the screw driver do the rest. Pushing that hard for a few minuted get old quick! Tighten all the bolts down, don't worry they don't make a air tight seal. No sea lent needed. Its just holds the spring on.

Here is the 5.25 Small red Spring. I had a fit when I purchased it I thought they sent a 15 psi Large spring. I am told they war only a 1/2 in difference in size. Anyways make sure to install this thing with the colored side up.

Here is the Tial Waste gate open. This is the 38mm version if anyone wants to know. This is what the inside looks like. You can see in this pic the whole that I couldn't get the bolt into. I will make the shop do it mua ha ha.

I now must unscrew all these nuts to get the wastage open. There is no control spring inside yet. I have two springs 5 psi and 7.5 psi. I am putting in 5 psi for right now until I get injectors in. I estimate I can make around 215 HP at 5 psi Boost.

Woo! Okay wells that's all the installing I am doing right now. Remember that I already had the Fuel pump, Oil line and fuel line installed before. The only thing I couldn't do is get a bold in the left side of the waste gate. It just wouldn't line up. i am going to let a shop deal with it. preferably the one that made the down pipe.

Piping done, I painted it black , looks good. I used three clamps on the upper hose because the angle is not perfectly straight so I put two couplers on the side that is tilting a bit to insure a good seal.

Top and bottom piping made very close together.

I realized the coupler I had was different on each end. One end being longer. I switched it around and about had a hear attack! There was just enough clearance where nothing rubbed. WOO! The coupler had split the night before, so I filled the crack with rubber compound and tightened a clamp over the break itself, after it dried I just left the clamp for support. Oh and I wrapped the whole thing three times with electrical tape for overall support. That tape is very strong and pulls tighter than any other tape. It worked well and held up fine. I will buy another one of these days as a replacement.

This was truly the hardest turbo coupler evarrrr! It fit so tight against our other pipes that the sealant acted as a lubricant and would slip off a few minutes later after screwing down the clamp. I tried to Hold it on with duct tape till it dried then tighten it down the next day. As you can see that didn't work. However now the sealant was dry.

I realized the intercooler lower nipple was 1/8 in larger than the other. The couplers I had simply wouldn't fit and that's a really odd size. I went to autozone and purchased a heater hose rated at 45 psi. this should do the trick, and it did! I cut a section of the hose and coupled it on with three worm gear clamps.

I applied sealant to the coupler as it would suck for this one to pop off as the battery must be removed to install it. I kept the blue take on to prevent scratches

This is the custom bent Intake pipe that spans from the Intercooler to the intake manifold. The red piece is the HKS Blow off Valve. It has a long mouth so I could make it a recirculation valve. That just means that the air pushes back into the intake of the turbo to keep vacuum to a minimum when shifting gears. This is done on the stock GS-T.

Intercooler test fit, I may need to trim a portion of the bumper later, I will avoid it if at all possible. If I do It will be minimal.

Intercooler installed, This is the basic placement. I end up taking it off again when I connect the lower pipe because there was hardly any play in the piping system.

Here is me, Still working off those Thanksgiving pounds. I am adjusting the intercooler here.

There is a Air dam plastic behind the bumper. This stuff is very thin. Thinner than a coke bottle plastic and if you grab it and pull it tears off. I ended up removing the whole thing after removing the inner bumper.

I removed the front bumper here to install the intercooler.

Picture Of the car from the front with headlights on, Its like the monster under my bed but this one eats Hondas.

I taped off all the candy red and painted this ugly heater pipe, Maybe later I will cut a piece of hose and cover it up, but paint keeps it from rusting. Always use BLUE painters tape. You will have a rough time working with anything else. The purple stuff isn't sticky enough to stay in place on the powder coated items.

Better picture of the Boost Dependant Regulators New Home. Right in front of the intake.

I had to install the turbo before the shop would connect the oil line. This is the new home for the fuel regulator zip tied the heater pipe. The shop originally bolted it to the intake mount. Where they thought the intake would go I don't now. Sooooo I did what FIMA should have don't and relocated the little guy and made him a new home by the EGR valve. I am keeping the EGR valve so that I pass emissions. Oh yes I will not have a Check engine light either. Its all part of a bigger plan.

Removing the waste gate spring for safety in can I need to pull the car forward or out of the garage I don't want the turbo to even think about spinning without the oil line installed yet for turbo lubrication.

Okay its bolted on now. It looks pretty but the heater pipe above the turbo looks horrible. I will paint it later semigloss black. I will paint the thermostat housing too.

Another good shot of the busted gasket can be seen here. At this point I am getting ready to install the turbo manifold. Dont worry I installed the new Stainless steel multilayer gasket. You can plainly see some carbon build up. I am not going to port my head but I would like to clean it a bit. So I scraped away about 50% of the buildup before continuing. Remember manifold bolts dont need that much pressure. Just 15 foot pounds is all you need.

The exhuast manifold is now apart and the O2 sensor was siply cut off. I didnt take the time the mess with it as there is no plug for the O2 and I did not intend on using the one that was stock so out must it go! Agian it looks like removing the radiator was a good idea to keep from trashing all the little cooling fins while removing the large odd shaped manifold and stock down pipe. The exhaust gasket looks horrible, good thing I have another one, multi layer stainless steel.

Here is the First Bolt to come out of the Manifold. The Wd-40 did make this much easier as they clearly where getting to the siezing point. Unfortunatly I did not take pictures of the trouble I hade removing the exhuast shield. The sheilds bolts rounded off and where in there really good. I ended up going to home depot and buying a nice chisel and 2 pound hammer. The chisel cut through the heat shield without issues but I ended up wasting a night of work. At this point I did remove the cooling fans, the unbolt easliy and make way for tons of room.

First part installed! I installed the new valve cover and replaced various seals I pruchased from the pars store. I am trying to fix leaks and looks all at the same time. The valve cover looks great here. The "wetness" you see on the stock manifold is from Wd-40. I always lubricate bolts with penetrating oil for a few hours before removing them. I have never had a bolt break on my car yet and I am trying to keep it that way.

Okay I became a little ancy here. I sat the powder coated parts on the engine just to see what they will look like. The parts are not installed here.

Holding the wastegate up the the turbo. The waste gate need to be welded to the downpipe. It didnt come this way however the car runs much queiter then the waste also travles throught the exhaust and muffler.

Here is the freshly cut heat sheild for the exhaust side. Just needs a mounting hole ( or 2) and we are in business.

These are the pieces of stainless I cut away from the Steel canister I purchased to make the Turbo exhaust side shield. The steel is fairly this, I will experiment with this material.

Turbocharger housing already installed on the Turbonetics t3-t4 60-1 turbocharger. The intake is 3 in. the output is 2 in. Here the manifold was sprayed with high temp ( up to 1200 degrees) The purple take it to keep junk, dust or even bolts from making their way into the turbo later on. The turbo is almost new, no shaft play very clean.

This is the powder coating I recieved from my buddy Jeff Ford ( FYI I sell for him if anyone likes my install) All this cost about 300 dollars by the time everything is shipped to him, cleaned, sandblasted, coated, clearcoated, baked and shipped back. Bake on this is two sessions of 14 min. at 425 degrees if I remember right. This is silver metalic that has been coated by a candy red ( transparent) then add clear.

This is the Layout of the Turbo , Heat shield I made and the Intake for the Turbo. I made the Heat shield from a stainless steel cylinder I purchased for about 6 dollars. This really is a premature pic and is out of chronological order. This happened after the powdercoating. See The powdercaoting write- up to see the before and after for all the coated parts.

Here is the original engine and how it has looked for the last ten years. The only change is a new battery and Red Grounding Wires replacing the smaller orininal counter parts. Its recomended to have at least 5 grounding points in s grounding system. View my writeup on grounding kits for more information there. I descided my accent color for the car will be candy red. Well lets get started.

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